El último pasajero de Naicó

Revista BIFE concurrió a Naicó en su 109 aniversario, y entrevistó a Alberto Kin -el último habitante-, y a los dueños del hostel del sitio. Entre historias y ruinas que se renuevan, un recorrido por los profundos recovecos del pueblo fantasma narrado por sus protagonistas.

Ese hombre de 35 años llamado Alberto Kin no sabía que estaba a punto de dejar de respirar por un tiempo. Desconocía que su pecho se le iba a partir en dos y que sus ojos iban a mirar adentro de su cuerpo, moribundo y desparramado en el piso. Apenas terminaba una jornada laboral más en la infinidad de los campos de Naicó, y su esposa -Mari- y su padre -Matías- lo esperaban adentro de la camioneta. Alberto agarró sus herramientas de trabajo al mismo tiempo que el toro refunfuñó, pero cuando dio media vuelta la bestia de una tonelada ya había impactado contra su tórax. Malherido, Alberto sentía la gramilla en la nuca y sabía que la disputa por su vida no había terminado. Conocía la estocada final que dan los toros: volver sobre su marcha y pisotear ferozmente a la víctima. “Morir aplastado”, habrá pensado Alberto cuando la áspera pezuña del toro oscureció su rostro que milagrosamente llegó a correr. La bestia, entonces, machacó su hombro y parte de su cuello -dejándolo inconsciente-, y se adelantó unos metros más para volver sobre él, en un tercer y definitivo round.

Pero en esta ocasión, sus dos perros lo rodearon con los pelos erizados y su padre bajó de la camioneta dando alaridos. La bestia se fue y quedó el peso muerto de Alberto sobre las 500 hectáreas de su propiedad. No respiraba. Su esposa decidió que había que hacerle Primeros Auxilios y así actuó su padre, técnica que aprendió en la colimba. Una, dos veces. A la tercera Alberto dio una bocanada de vida que lo trajo nuevamente a su campo, a su pueblo, donde concentra cada uno de sus recuerdos, para que hoy, a sus 57 años, siendo el único habitante de este maravilloso sitio junto a su esposa -Mari- y su hijo -Daniel-, pueda contar, quizá, el único momento traumático que vivió en Naicó: su lugar en el mundo. 

Naicó está en el departamento de Toay, a 45 km de Santa Rosa y 14 km del Parque Luro, en una zona de cielos azules y aire puro. Hoy es conocido como el típico “pueblo fantasma” de La Pampa, pero hay mucho más que eso. Para llegar se debe pasar un caldenar quemado -donde de una rama cuelga una máscara de hueso de vaca para convocar la lluvia- y un cementerio de unas 40 tumbas, dentro de las cuales persiste la memoria de muchos de sus habitantes. Hoy Naico tiene dos habitantes originarios (Alberto Kin y su hijo, Daniel), pero llegó a tener 600 en la década del 20, con la construcción de un hotel y tres aserraderos funcionando. Era un pueblo que vivía del ferrocarril y de la hacheria, y cuando estas dos actividades entraron en decadencia a partir de 1930, los pobladores comenzaron a migrar. Durante la 2GM hubo un repunte al reactivarse la explotación forestal por la falta de carbón, que duró hasta el primer peronismo (aún puede leerse en la Estación del Ferrocarril “apoye el 2do Plan Quinquenal”) pero con la llegada de los motores diesel, la pavimentación de la ruta 35 y el comienzo del cambio de leña por gas, el éxodo fue irreversible. Salvo para Matías Kin, el padre ya fallecido de Alberto, que decidió quedarse. 

Morir aplastado”, habrá pensado Alberto cuando la áspera pezuña del toro oscureció su rostro que milagrosamente llegó a correr”

El viejo Matías Kin trabajaba en el campo y solía trabajar con Cobos, un estanciero de la zona. Cobos tenía una bella sirvienta a la que Matías Kin “le había echado el ojo”. Se especula que Kin saliera a trabajar con Cobos sólo para estar cerca de la bella sirvienta (nativa de Colonia Ferrado, La Araña). Un día cuadraron para ir juntos al baile, y luego de noches de amor, en 1962, cuando Frondizi era eyectado del poder, nacía el pequeño Alberto. 28 años después la historia se repitió: un joven Alberto, viril y bastante “vago” -según las fuentes consultadas-, había terminado su trabajo en el campo y dijo “a la mierda, me voy de acá”. Llegó al baile de San Martín a la 1 de la mañana. Sentada a lo lejos en el salón de fiestas, Alberto vio a Mari por primera vez. Sin dudar se acercó y le hizo señas, a lo que Mari respondió positivamente, y empezaron a bailar. “Yo bailo muy bien, sobre todo el pasodoble, de manera que tuvimos un hijo, Daniel. Hace 29 años estamos juntos. Juntos trajinamos el campo. Ella era sirvienta de los Santamaría. Cuando la traje pal campo casi me caga a palos la vieja Santamaría. No es por nada pero era muy buena sirvienta. Se me enojó más que la mierda. ‘Me la quitaste’, me decía. ‘Y pa qué la querías, pa vestir monjas’, le decía yo”, cuenta Alberto.

El pueblo se fundó en 1911 por Fortunato Anzoátegui y lo llamó Ministro Lobos. Pero ya existía de antes, se llamaba Naicó y era territorio ranquel. A partir de ahí, la zona se dividió en Naico y Ministro Lobos, lo que más tarde despertó la pasión por el fútbol entre los dos equipos, un River-Boca pampeano, que Alberto (de Ministro Lobos) recuerda con mucho cariño: “Yo jugaba de 4”, dice y sonríe. Naico en ranquel significa “manantial que corre”. Lleva ese nombre porque es un territorio de agua salada y los ranqueles sabían exactamente dónde encontrar agua dulce. Por ejemplo, ellos ahuecaban los árboles tinaja para conservar agua y de esa manera se iban moviendo, de tinaja en tinaja, hasta llegar a esta zona, donde cazaban. 

Esta historia Jésica y Marcelo Altube, los propietarios del Hostal de Naicó, la conocen muy bien, ya que tuvieron que recurrir a su vecino Alberto Kin para acordar una cantidad de agua destinada al hostel. Hace tres años Marcelo (de Lonquimay) y Jésica (de Santa Rosa) emprendieron el proyecto de poner en funcionamiento el hostel de Naicó. Marcelo es músico y cazador. Después de preparar un cordero al asador al aire libre en el centro de un círculo cubierto de rocas, que sirven también para sentarse, desenfunda la guitarra y toca bajo las estrellas. Jésica está abocada a la comida (flanes, locros, empanadas y otras comidas típicas) y es la historiadora del lugar. Como no hay un material completo sobre Naicó, ella se encargó de investigar, entrevistar, tomar notas y con el testimonio de los ex habitantes que se fueron acercando al hostel, unir las historias para luego contarlas en un recorrido por las ruinas del pueblo, donde se develan los misterios detrás de la iglesia sin altar, del auto del cura, del hotel dividido por clases sociales, de la plaza, el parque y, por supuesto, de la Estación de Ferrocarril. 

El hostel está compuesto por 16 habitaciones. Les está yendo relativamente bien, pese a la crisis. Los fines de semana generalmente está completo, de modo que la pareja habilita para que se pueda acampar. Se puede pasar la tarde o pernoctar, y más allá de la caminata guiada a las ruinas del pueblo, está también la excursión al cerro de la virgen. Luego se merienda con chocolate y tortas mientras uno queda embutido en los atardeceres metafísicos de Naicó, con la música de los pájaros. “Nunca creí que Naicó fuera tan importante, porque en la historia fue una de las Estaciones más relevantes de todo el ramal”, explica Jésica. “Ahora, al hostel vienen también gente de Francia, Italia, Estados Unidos. Ellos te siguen a todos lados, hasta cuando uno junta los animales o prepara cualquier comida. También vienen personas que hacen casería fotográfica, ciclistas, parejas, y todo aquel que quiera pasar una tarde o una noche en la inmensidad de este lugar”, cuenta la joven mujer. 

Foto: Mariano Suárez Becerra

Conversación con Alberto Kin

Estamos afuera de la casa de Alberto (el último pasajero), en su ranchito. Atrás está el galpón y a nuestro lado las 500 hectáreas que heredó de su padre Matías, con las 100 cabezas de ganado. Alberto, bigote prolijo, me ceba un mate y dice: 

– Si me querés matar, sacame del pueblo-. El momento cúlmine de Alberto es cuando el sol empieza a caer, entonces después de trabajar se sienta en una silla, fuma un cigarrito, toma una cerveza, y se acuesta con su mujer.

– ¿Qué es Naicó para vos?-

– Es mi felicidad-. Alberto es el único habitante que quedó de aquella generación. Cuando el único policía se va de vacaciones, a él le dicen “comisario” e “intendente”.- Nunca busqué irme. Cuando falleció mi viejo, seguí trabajando yo. Ahora también está mi hijo, pero ya me dijo que cuando me muera le va a poner a todo esto un cartelito que diga: “se vende”.

– ¿Cómo te cayó eso?

– Me da igual. Qué problema me voy a hacer si yo no voy a estar.

– ¿Nunca salís de Naicó?

– Sí, pero lo odio. El otro día salí por primera vez de vacaciones. Se lo había prometido a mi señora. Fuimos a Buenos Aires. Luego estuve días para recuperarme, estaba completamente mareado con aquellos ruidos. No puedo soportar el movimiento. La cabeza mía va a mil por horas. Me pone mal. 

– ¿Qué es la ciudad para vos?

– No sé, pero allá te sentás atrás de una reja, pareces preso. Uno no está tranquilo, hay como ansiedad e intolerancia. Y paranoia con el tema de la inseguridad, yo no lo entiendo-, dice Alberto y aclara igual que “cada uno con sus gustos”, pero que él está tranquilo acá.

El otro día salí por primera vez de vacaciones. Se lo había prometido a mi señora. Fuimos a Buenos Aires. Luego estuve días para recuperarme, estaba completamente mareado con aquellos ruidos. No puedo soportar el movimiento.

Tan tranquilo que es amigo hasta de los furtivos. Dice: “Si veo uno me pongo a charlar. Correrlo es pa’ cagada. Conversando se arreglan las cosas, mientras que no me maten los terneros, con los ciervos y chanchos que hagan lo que quieran. Nunca tuve problemas”. 

– Me encontré a un amigo que me preguntó “¿vos siempre acá?”, pero por supuesto le dije, de acá no me sacan ni muerto, si tengo el cementerio acá nomás- Alberto señala el horizonte-, me preguntó a cuánto lo tenía, le dije 2 mil metros y me dijo “ah, cuando te mueras te podes ir caminando, nomá’”.

Alberto calienta más agua y regresa.

– Contame del proceso de migración, ¿cómo fue esa etapa para vos?

– Yo tenía 12 años, por el 75’ más o menos. Habían unas 100 personas en ese momento. Se empezaron a ir, primero uno, después no quedó nadie. Con una hablé ahora, se había ido a Calzar y la echaron el año pasado. Pero no hubo soledad acá, a pesar de que no haya nadie, al contrario. Estuve siempre feliz. 

– ¿Y nunca estás alunado?

-Si me querés ver alunado, sentame. Dejame quieto. Hasta cuando llueve tengo que estar haciendo algo, moviéndome .

– ¿Pero no era que no soportabas el movimiento?

– El movimiento a mi alrededor. Cuando llueve, por ejemplo, hago cosas en el galpón. Luego entro y Mari me reta, porque ensucio la casa. Y tiene razón, pero es que no puedo estar quieto. 

– ¿En qué pensas cuando estás quieto?

El sol empieza a caer y el ambiente va cambiando de color. Los atardeceres son infinitos.

– No puedo estarlo. ¿Sabés lo que fueron esos 2 años de recuperación cuando sucedió lo del toro? Mejor ni te cuento. Ah, y me salvó una curandera. Después te cuento esa historia. 

-¿Cómo fue tu infancia acá?

– A la tardecita nos íbamos a jugar al fútbol con los de la escuela del internado. Eso era después de trabajar. Yo empecé a trabajar a los 11 años, con mi viejo.- Alberto recuerda una y otra vez anécdotas de su viejo, y tradiciones que él repito.

– ¿Cómo era tu viejo?

– Qué se yo, mi viejo cuando estaba era bravo, te hacía laburar. Yo no soy para nada bravo con mi hijo. ¿Sabés cuántas veces me prestó la camioneta mi viejo? Una sola vez. Un día había quedado con una chica de Toay, se la pedí y me dijo ‘ahí tiene la calle, haga dedo’. Nunca más la vi, ¿qué hubiera pasado? No lo sé…

-¿Cómo te las rebuscás económicamente?

-No nos sobra ni andamos a los tirones. Ya te digo, porque somos chacareros. Porque con estos gobiernos… Miércoles. Las sequías son duras. Tenés que estudiarlas por todos lados. En el 2011 compre una 0km y en este momento no llego ni por casualidad. Está complicado para los chacareros. Un tambor de gasoil está 14 mil pesos y trabajando bien nos dura un día y medio. Y todo sale de acá, de la producción. El año pasado pagué 600 pesos la bolsa de centeno. Este año más de mil pesos. Yo me dedico a los terneros, mayormente los vendo. Está complicada la mano. Está bien que tengo dos departamentos, pero lo que me deja se va todo para impuestos. Y la luz te da cualquier cosa. Este año me cobraron 400 pesos. En septiembre me vino 3 mil. Estamos todos locos.

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