(Desde Venezuela)
1.La vivacidad en las calles.
San Mateo es un terreno del estado de Aragua, capital del municipio de Bolívar; una región agropecuaria, donde viven poco más de 60 mil habitantes. Se encuentra entre dos grandes ciudades: La Victoria y Turmero, importantes centros de la inmigración reciente. Ahora, San Mateo es mayormente un sitio donde sus habitantes descansan después de una jornada de trabajo en otros territorios aledaños.
Tiene sus casas humildes, sus fachadas gastadas y antiguas; es un territorio de bajos recursos, de antaño y colonial, fundado en 1620. El sanmateano, en la tarde, coloca sus sillas afuera -sobre todo en el barrio (villa) que comienza en la falda del cerro y sube como en una espiral- para aprovechar las tardes de calor. Esto le da al sector una cierta vivacidad entre niños, adultos y viejos, que juegan, que chusmean y que ahuyentan, en cierto modo y por un rato, la situación de tener que resolver las necesidades básicas de cada día.

2.El rebusque
El sanmateano se las rebusca, como casi toda Venezuela hoy; y parece que no reniega de ello, porque quienes viven acá están más acostumbrados a la improvisación diaria:en tiempos difíciles, días adversos, pueden hacer aparecer de la manga, como en un acto de magia, una arepa, un mango, un plátano. «Uno ya está acostumbrado a resolver. El mango, por ejemplo, muchas veces en este tiempo, es la comida principal a la noche. Te comes uno y cubres los nutrientes, y te vas a acostar tranquilo. Y al día siguiente se ve qué se hace», me dice un «chamo», caminando por la calle. Entre otras particularidades, el sanmateano se desliza por la “rúa” desafiando a los “carros”, que deben esquivar a los transeúntes. Es la costumbre.
«Resolver» o el «rebusque», palabras claves en la dinámica de la cotidianeidad. Uno tiene que circular rápido el dinero porque se devalúa ferozmente. Uno tiene que circular con toda su historia a cuestas, con creatividad, por redes que se van creando sobre la marcha, por redes de alimentos, de productos de limpieza, de higiene. Por redes de solidaridad. El trueque se impone, y así se resuelve, se contiene; porque un trabajo no es suficiente, entonces, «no hay tiempo que perder».

San Mateo es un territorio pobre. Tiene el centro en la superficie y tiene los barrios que se estiran a lo largo del cerro. El problema de la luz acá es grave, aunque en mi presencia la mayor parte del tiempo hubo energía. También hay problemas con el agua, que sale una vez por semana y se tiene que depositar y administrar en un tanque azul que tienen las casas. Como no está potabilizada, para el consumo se debe hervir, algunos también le echan cloro -los más responsables y quienes pueden adquirirlo-. En uno de los centros de salud, o postas sanitarias, me cuentan que la mayor cantidad de casos consiste en niños con vómitos y diarrea. En estos lugares también de pronto pueden escasear los insumos, desde gasas hasta antibióticos. Se vive con incertidumbre, como en una tensa calma.
3.Pueblo olvidado.
Algunos de sus habitantes coinciden en que ha sido un pueblo olvidado, donde las políticas chavistas poco han penetrado la coraza del barrio. Un trabajador del Estado me cuenta: «Es un pueblo olvidado por la dirigencia que nos gobierna aquí, que dicen llamarse chavistas y que en la práctica no lo son porque se llenan los bolsillos con presupuestos asignados para programas sociales. Son unos corruptos».
«Corrupción», concepto que, intuyo, seguirá sonando entre propios y ajenos.
«El anterior alcalde y su hermana –continuó el hombre de unos aproximados 50 años-, la actual alcalde, son unos completos vividores de lo que le envía el gobierno al pueblo. Aunque la mayoría en San Mateo somos chavistas convencidos».
«¿Y por qué te parece que la mayoría acá son chavistas, si en definitiva es un pueblo olvidado y han visto poco de las políticas sociales?», se le pregunta. «Porque las políticas nacionales –responde el hombre-, como los claps (cajas de alimentos básicos regulados y distribuidos por el gobierno. Aunque según me confirman, en este sector, no llegan desde hace meses), los bonos, los planes de viviendas, etcétera, nos hacen ser optimistas. La oposición lo que ofrece es una oportunidad para los ricos. Somos chavistas porque se sigue el legado de Chávez de aguantar por muy duro que sea el panorama».

4.Las mujeres piropean.
Se recomienda tajantemente no circular por la noche. Aunque nosotros, bajo las estrellas y entre montañas, caminamos hacia una farmacia ubicada en un centro desértico. Pero el barrio no está desértico, aún hay gente, incluso hay “chamitos” jugando: acá se respeta la seguridad del habitante del barrio. No ocurre lo mismo en los alrededores.
Pasó una mujer morena de las que llaman la atención con su mera presencia, prepotente a la hora de caminar y resuelta en sus movimientos. Mi acompañante me explicó: «Aquí no se mira a las mujeres, a no ser que seas definitivamente disimulado, como un camaleón. Ocurre que muchas pueden ser las novias de los ‘malandros’, o del mismo ‘pran’, y eso, hermano, te puede hacer pasar por el rigor del plomo».
Así como tampoco se conoce del todo quién es el “pran” y quiénes son sus trabajadores, tampoco se sabe quiénes son sus novias. Entonces persiste una cierta paranoia: ante la duda, se prefiere no cortejar, a menos que se conozca la situación en su totalidad. Por lo tanto, en San Mateo, como en seguramente otros sectores y barrios, quienes miran y cortejan en las calles son las mismas mujeres.
Pero ¿qué es un «pran»? Es el líder de los reos de un penal, que mantiene el control y la dinámica de la cárcel. Armados hasta los dientes, suelen salir y entrar con facilidad, y manejan grandes territorios del país. Es un fenómeno que, según se sabe, se acentuó en los últimos 10 años. Los “pranes”, algunos más “rudos” que otros, se encuentran en los barrios organizando zonas estratégicas y diversos negocios. Especialmente en San Mateo, según dicen distintos vecinos, desde la llegada del nuevo “pran”, a quien le dicen “alcalde”, se acabó con la delincuencia… Porque se acabó, claro, con los mismos “malandros” del lugar. De esta manera, también se instauró temor en cualquiera que pretenda robar a sus vecinos.

«De alguna forma, (el pran) es quien organizó todo esto. Antes, si uno pintaba una casa, había que dejarle una comisión a los malandros, si no te llenaban el hogar de plomo… Y así con todo. Ahora ya no. Porque él los sube al cerro y allí les dispara a las manos o a los pies, y los hace bajar. No le hizo nada a nadie, salvo a esos malandros sueltos», me cuentan.
Aunque también, ya desde hace unos años, el gobierno creó la FAES (Fuerzas Especiales de la Policía Nacional Bolivariana), que es una organización policial que se encarga de investigar y detectar a grupos delictivos, ingresar al lugar que estén y directamente exterminarlos sin previo juicio. De esta manera, los grupos que operan en los barrios, mantienen cierta cautela por temor a ser alcanzados por la FAES.
El “pran” también organiza festivales y «rumbas», tiene las armas más sofisticadas, maneja distintos negocios y ha hecho obras ahí donde el Estado está ausente. Acá lo consideran, dentro de todo, un «buen vecino», al que nadie nombra y todos respetan, porque, dicen, ya no se camina con miedo por la calle. «Pero si te dice que subas al cerro porque precisa hablar tal cosa, más vale que subas rápido… Sino te va a ir a buscar, y eso no te va a gustar».
311 thoughts on “EL REBUSQUE DEL SANMATEANO”
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