Segunda impresión de Bogotá

Desde Bogotá, el cronista recorre una vez más la capital colombiana, se desliza por el centro, por La Candelaria, y encuentra tres características: el trabajo excesivo, una cierta indiferencia por los flagelos que golpean en el interior (el narcotráfico y el paramilitarismo) y la división de la ciudad por estratos económicos que representa un motivo de segregación.

Cuarto cuadro: el Centro

¡Ah! ¡Olor a frituras y manteca rancia! Quizá el centro de Bogotá me pueda contar algo más. Estoy en San Victorino, que es el barrio Once pero perfeccionado. Mejor dicho: Once es el hijo pequeño no reconocido de San Victorino. Acá rebosa todo. Lo sobrante es la regla y no la excepción: los culos embutidos en polleras negras, paquetes detonados de comidas grasosas, charcos, basura desparramada en esquinas oscuras, brota sudor de cabezas atormentadas y una avalancha de sardinas se aproxima, gestos grandilocuentes, risas diabólicas, auroras de sobaco en camisas rotas, pasos prepotentes, sonoros, las ganas de imponerse, la rosca de las esquinas en plena transacción, miradas pícaras de aves de rapiña, los puestos de aguacates, de coco, de mazorcas, los cafeteros, el abuso de poder, más glúteos rimbombantes, el trajeado empresario de una industria de buscas de zapatos gastados, el petiso con el pecho inflado, un mendigo ciego y sin nariz se abalanza amablemente para requisar monedas ajenas, un caballero camina con un traje que encandila, un hombre da círculos en el medio de la calle mientras pita y echa humo.

Nubes de manteca rancia, nubes de chicharrones, de empanadas colombianas, puestos por doquier, de cigarrillos individuales, de minutos de teléfono, un vallenato que sale de caderas calientes, hay algunos en el piso, “usted es un gonorrea”, “esto está bien berraco”, un tipo se aparece de pronto como si saliera de una cueva pero es su negocio, “aromáticas dos por uno”, un pibe advierte ofertas de zapatillas rapeando, un viejo camina con una caja a cuestas y todo el pescuezo torcido, es lunes a las tres de la tarde y caminan los chantas, un vaquero se detiene, caminan los rufianes, un adolescente vestido de cocinero hace girar un plato con el dedo y tiene una mirada burlona, caminan los canallas, un niño me tironea de la manga, gente que vive entre grietas húmedas como plantas casmofíticas, y otra avalancha de sardinas se aproxima, ¿qué hace toda esta gente, hacia dónde va?, negros y negras se entrecruzan con baratijas entre el típico desorden armónico que rigen las vidas, por caminos que se abren y se cierran de negocios baratísimos y, por supuesto, la religión, se escucha a unos 100 metros, en la plaza Simón Bolívar: “Aquí estamos los embajadores de Dios”, suena de un megáfono, en un evento contra el consumo de drogas, y un viejo se aparece y me grita: “¡No a la violencia!”.

Quinto cuadro: La Candelaria

A medida que uno sube por el cerro, el frenético ardor de la atmósfera se evapora y se ingresa a un ambiente más bohemio, más relajado. Ya está uno en La Candelaria. Es el típico lugar, el centro histórico de Bogotá. Acá se fundó la ciudad el 6 de agosto de 1559 y se construyó la primera iglesia. En este sitio se pueden observar teatros, cines, museos, murales, adoquines, artesanos, comidas típicas, bibliotecas, librerías, turistas, sobre todo turistas. Es la zona donde abundan los hosteles, para que el extranjero se deslice con su cámara fotográfica por unos días, porque en Bogotá si bien llegan una docena de turistas y mochileros al año, se quedan unos pocos días antes de seguir viaje a otros sitios como Medellín y Cartagena. Este fenómeno es prácticamente reciente, porque hasta no hace mucho tiempo el turismo escaseaba, por lo menos en su capital, que ahora se dedica también a mostrar sus comidas típicas, sus sitios históricos.

Sexto cuadro: “El que madruga…”

El bogotano se acuesta muy temprano -entre las 21 y 22 horas-, porque es muy madrugador (se despierta a las 5, 5.30 a.m.). Durante la semana no hay vida nocturna y prácticamente a las 11 de la noche las calles quedan tan desiertas como un domingo a la mañana en el centro de Santa Rosa. Quedan pocos delirantes solitarios que caminan. Los fines de semana, sin embargo, la rumba se extiende hasta las 3 o 4 a.m., no más. 

Si hay algo que define al habitante de esta tierra es su capacidad de laburo, su predisposición para el trabajo. Se trajina bestialmente, y nadie, absolutamente nadie, respeta las 8 horas legales. Quienes no están contratados, destinan entre 11 y 12 horas diarias a su actividad, y quienes sí lo están, aprovechan y hacen horas extras; generalmente durante ¡6 días a la semana! ¿Horarios de comercio cortado para desinflarse en la siesta? ¡ja! Acá se abre a las 7 de la mañana y se cierra a las 7 u 8 de la noche, de corrido. 

Quizá sea por esto que el bogotano común no esté empapado de algunos de los delicados problemas que ocurren en Colombia, o le resulte al ciudadano común, un tanto indiferente (¡no tiene tiempo!). Por ejemplo la situación del narcotráfico y el paramilitarismo hoy. Si bien son temas que afectan a todo el país, el bogotano generalmente se entera de ellos por televisión, porque en la capital se dejó de vivir la violencia política que se vive en el interior. De modo tal que Bogotá en este sentido puede ser una burbuja, que, por supuesto, tiene sus propios problemas, como los embotellamientos y cierta delincuencia sumado a las consecuencias de la gran migración venezolana. No obstante esto, existe naturalmente el sector informado y concientizando que, por ejemplo, se manifestó hace poco por los líderes sociales asesinados. 

Séptimo cuadro: los estratos

Colombia tiene una característica distintiva en el mundo y es que sus ciudades están divididas por estratos económicos. Bogotá, por ejemplo, está compuesta por 6 estratos. En los tres más bajos (1, 2 y 3) viven aquellos que reciben subsidios de agua, luz y gas; y en el 5 y 6 quienes pagan sus facturas a precios superiores de su consumo. Mientras que el estrato cuatro paga lo que consume, no recibe ayudas ni las aporta, alberga un limbo para los estándares colombianos. El sur es estrato uno y dos, por tanto, se identifica con la pobreza. En el centro hay una suerte de clase media; y en el norte, los que denominan ricos, estratos cinco y seis. 

Este modelo, que se creó en los 90 como un mecanismo solidario, cuando la pobreza llegaba al 90%, hoy se ha convertido en una razón de segregación, como una suerte de sistema de castas, donde muchos individuos se identifican de acuerdo al lugar que viven. 

¿Cómo decide el Estado a qué estrato pertenece uno? Evaluando la fachada de la casa, los materiales del techo y las condiciones de la vía frente a la vivienda. No se tiene en cuenta la renta, el número de personas que componen la familia, la edad, si alguien tiene alguna discapacidad o si tienen o no un empleo. De modo tal que si uno compró una casa de estrato 6 y luego tiene el ingreso de una pensión baja, no recibirá ayuda. Y sucede lo mismo al revés. Por ejemplo en el centro hay edificios estrato 1 porque están amparados por la ley de patrimonio histórico, pero son hoteles o segundas casas de otros ciudadanos, generando de esta manera una microorrupción.

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