cangrejo en retirada

La crisis de Venezuela contada desde el mango

Ante la crisis de alimentos, el mango pasó a ser para muchas la salvación en días adversos. Se impone el rebusque en todas sus formas.

By León Nicanoff /

1.La fruta sabrosa.

Eran las dos de la mañana y no podía dormir. El calor y los mosquitos me estaban atacando. Y, por supuesto, el estómago rugía.

En ese momento no tenía qué comer. Me dirigí al terreno detrás de la casa donde estaba. De repente, me encontré subido en lo alto de un árbol con un palo, tratando de cazar uno de los pocos mangos que quedaban.

La cacería fue exitosa. El mango cayó seco al suelo y no tuvo ni un rasguño. Bajé decidido a agarrarlo y lo mastiqué tranquilamente hasta llenarme. El sueño bajó con mis ojos.

Ya recostado, pensé: «Que fruta más bondadosa, mas noble y sabrosa. Con su forma ovalada, su color verde, amarillo o color fuego, representa para uno un verdadero deleite tanto para los ojos como para el paladar».

Usted puede hacer de todo: jugo, dulce, diversas comidas o bien puede cortarlo en rodajas y a su vez en rodajas más pequeñas que se queden pegadas a la cáscara para comerlo delicadamente. Si gusta, también puede meterle un tarascón, embadurnarse el rostro y masticar hasta la pepa.

Es tan sabroso, tiene tantos nutrientes y es tan llenador, que viene muy bien para que sea parte secundaria o principal de las comidas de niños o adultos. Se puede comer de mañana, de tarde y de noche. De hecho, ya muchas personas me hablan de la «salvación» que representa el mango para muchos hogares de Venezuela, que antes lo consumían como postre o para acompañar otra «vaina».

Esta fruta tradicional venezolana, originaria de la India, existe en muchos patios, corrales o bien en calles del país con sus matas que van desde el mango hilacha, manga, mangotin, entre otros. Y aporta 72 calorías al cuerpo, calcio, fósforo, hierro, magnesio, zinc, cobre, sodio, potasio, vitaminas A, B, B1, B2, B6, C, caroteno.

2.Comida principal.

Ante la escasez de alimentos -no por desabastecimiento sino porque los productos están extremadamente caros en relación a los sueldos que se perciben-, el mango es para algunos la comida principal. Se le da un mango al niño y se lo manda al colegio, se hace una ensalada de mango al mediodía o un mango en la noche como quien dice, «para engañar el estómago».

Sin embargo, está terminando la temporada en Venezuela, que va desde abril, mayo hasta junio (épocas de lluvia), y ya casi no se ve el fruto en las matas. Por otro lado, sí se lo puede ver, por ahora, en los puestos de las calles, al expandirse su venta porque representa para la persona una ganancia superior al sueldo que pueda tener en un trabajo formal.

3.Creatividad gastronómica.

«Cuando no resuelvo, me como un mango y listo», «tenemos algunos mangos de reserva en los momentos que no llegamos con el alimento», «le doy un mango a mi hija y se lo come en la escuela porque tiene mucha azúcar, cuando la voy a buscar a la tarde hacemos una buena comida», «el mango siempre te salva, pero dura tres meses y no se suele conservar como debería hacerse», «hace tres meses que mis hijos comen mangos casi todos los días porque no conseguimos alimentos y ya no lo pueden ingerir porque les agarra diarrea y se deshidratan» (un mango de tamaño mediano tiene 3 gramos de fibra, y en exceso ocasiona diarreas), son algunas de las frases que he escuchado.

Así todo, la temporada de mango está terminando, y esa fuente calórica para subsistir dejará de estar en los hogares más necesitados. Queda, por supuesto, el plátano, que brota durante todo el año, y muchos otros alimentos y derivados -que serán comentados en próximas crónicas- que se volvieron a utilizar o fueron descubiertos «ahorita» como respuesta a la crisis alimentaria.

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