cangrejo en retirada

Mi viaje a Venezuela

Me voy de cronista a Venezuela. El vuelo en avión, la discordia con la azafata y el retraso de mi viaje.

By León Nicanoff /

(Desde Venezuela)

1.El vuelo y la azafata.

Delante mío no habían asientos y yo estaba sentado solo y cómodo con las piernas estiradas como dos fiambres, todavía no habíamos alcanzado los 12 mil metros de altura en el avión de Estelar Latinoamericana (aerolínea venezolana fundada en 2009) con destino al aeropuerto Simón Bolívar en Maiquetía, Venezuela, cuando de repente se apareció una azafata portuguesa mal hablada:

-¿Estás preparado para estar aquí?- me preguntó. 

¿Preparado? Una azafata que apenas habla español viene a poner en duda mi situación, quién se cree que es, cómo voy a saber si estoy preparado, básicamente no estoy preparado para nada, pero bueno, en definitiva ¿quién lo está? Simplemente tomé la decisión de ir a Venezuela y mandar notas desde allá; tranquilo estoy acá, con esa euforia primeriza de lo que vendrá, aunque siendo absolutamente consciente que mañana no es ninguna panacea ni mucho menos, ese buzón no me lo morfo, pero bueno, azafata mal hablada, dejame disfrutar por lo menos el momento, me venís a batir semejante drama ahora que ya despegamos -si estoy o no preparado- y mientras tanto estoy comodísimo con las piernas estiradas como dos fiambres colgados en una carnicería, y ¿por qué seguís mirándome así? 

-Si te sientas aquí, tu eres el encargado de tirar de esta manija para que se abra la puerta en caso de emergencias.

-¿Tengo que abrir la puerta del avión? ¿Por eso es que no hay asientos delante mío?

-Eso es correcto ¿Está preparado?

-Estoy preparado.

-¿Si?

-Sí, señorita.

-¿Seguro?

-Sí…

-¿De verdad?

-Estoy ansioso por jalar de la puerta, señorita.

-¿Cómo?

-Que estoy preparado.

La azafata se fue y regresó con un sanguche de pollo y un vaso de vino y después otro. Éramos 199 venezolanos y un argentino. La gente volvía de visitar parientes o iba a Venezuela a finalizar trámites para volver a Argentina. Sólo uno regresaba definitivamente a su país porque en Argentina lo habían explotado. Afuera las nubes empezaban a cubrir los cerros bolivarianos.

2.¿Por qué viajo?

Tomé la decisión de viajar a Venezuela en marzo, cuando la intervención militar extranjera era una posibilidad que se barajaba todos los días. Por cuestiones burocráticas, no sucedió. Se retrasó más de la cuenta la visa periodística, las exigencias y los trámites en ese sentido se hicieron intensificaron. Me pidieron infinidad de detalles personales como también detalles del medio para el que voy a trabajar y, por supuesto, el tiempo necesario para corroborar dicha información. Todas estas exigencias se entienden si se tiene en cuenta que es un país fuertemente militar, que en la actualidad es el centro del mundo mediático y uno de los escenarios de confrontación de las potencias mundiales. De modo que el viaje se retrasó. Por supuesto, chequear que uno no sea espía, narcotraficante o periodista poco responsable, lleva tiempo.

Entonces, llegaré a Venezuela en un momento de “tensa calma política” donde -pese a la permanencia del bloqueo económico- el escenario de una invasión extranjera, por el momento, parece descartado. Me encontraré, en consecuencia, con un proceso de “resistencia”, como lo llaman algunos, o de “supervivencia”, como lo llaman otros.

¿Qué piensa y siente la militancia de base del gobierno respecto a esta situación? ¿Cómo repercute en la cotidianidad la tragedia del éxodo masivo de venezolanos? ¿Qué piensa y siente el ciudadano común, alejado de las cuestiones partidarias? ¿Cómo se comporta la oposición? ¿Cómo se las “rebusca” la sociedad en una economía que se redujo en los últimos años a la mitad? ¿Cómo es vivir en una cultura socialista y militar? ¿Cómo se manifiesta la contradicción de que sea un país económicamente capitalista en cuya retórica esté siempre presente la palabra “revolución? Son algunas de las preguntas que me intentaré responder al correr de los días cuando, sin mucha logística y con pocos contactos, me abra camino en territorio bolivariano.

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