Crónicas En Foco Pampeaneidad sociedad

No hay vuelta, ¡Ojo de Agua es la pampeanidad!

La génesis del hitazo del verano: el día que prohibieron la Laguna Don Tomás fue el momento que, sin saberlo, se empezó a gestar la Ojomanía. La pampeaneidad, ¿ficción y realidad? La vez que el intendente tuvo que mandar a sus casas a una masa desquiciada porque no daba más la capacidad. Color, datos e historia del nuevo boom turístico pampeano.

By León Nicanoff /

Ojo de Agua se nos presentaba como una salvación -pensamos-, como una botella de agua en un desierto lleno de anchoas y coronavirus. Concurrencias de más de 4 mil personas en su momento, hallazgos arqueológicos, fotos de señoras varadas en la orilla con la salada agua pampeana, fotos de señores tirándose de palomita, tapa en los medios más importantes de la provincia, sombrillas de paja, arena caribeña. ¿Qué es lo que ocurre en esta peculiar laguna?

Tomamos la ruta 5 hasta Uriburu, pasamos por Anguil donde a nuestra izquierda se veían raras casitas de una comunidad Humanista con un cartel en la entrada que decía: Espacio de reflexión. “Ideal para la vuelta”, pensé. Ingresamos al pueblo, atravesamos un camino de tierra durante tres mil metros hasta una tranquera. En esa tranquera, según contará después a Revista BIFE, el intendente Fernández tuvo que cerrarla con sus propias manos, pararse sobre una madera, poner el cuerpo y tranquilizar y mandar a sus casas a toda la masa desquiciada que quería entrar cuando la capacidad estaba al máximo. Ese momento se recuerda, entre los lugareños, como el día de la “.Ojomanía”.

Maestras de escuela recreándose en Ojo de Agua.

Los uriburenses son individuos particulares, sobre todo son huraños. Cuentan que al principio observaban llegar a los foráneos –desde sus ventanas, metidos en sus cuevas– con ojos rencorosos. Acostumbrados a la soledad, en un pueblo pequeño de un poco más de mil habitantes, Uriburu se convirtió de repente en el epicentro del veraniego turismo pampeano, y llevó tiempo hasta que los lugareños se adaptaron. Algo que ayudó a la adaptación fue que entendieron el negocio que representaba. Para dar un ejemplo, el almacenero (que no abría los domingos) trabajando un solo día ojomaníaco, se podía tirar a muerto o pegarse unas regias duchas de sol durante el resto de la semana porque había recaudado más que en siete días de trabajo normal.

Ojo de Agua se nos presentaba como una salvación -pensamos-, como una botella de agua en un desierto lleno de anchoas y coronavirus”

Así, fueron apareciendo los puestitos a los costados de los caminos, y el pueblo aprendió a currar. Hoy Ojo de Agua es una insignia que los lugareños cuelgan en su pecho con orgullo. “¿De dónde sos?”, “De Uriburu”, “¡Ojo de Agua!”, “Así es”. Sin embargo aún se puede observar a los uriburenses, personas recatadas, esperar hasta las siete de la tarde, y a medida que el predio se va despoblando empiezan a ocupar su orgullosa tierra, se sientan, observan en el horizonte caer el sol y respiran.

¿Qué ocurre en Ojo de Agua para que hoy sea el boom del verano? Vamos a averiguarlo.

Ojo de Agua es una idea que tuvieron muchos uriburenses a lo largo de la historia. Existió siempre. Ya en 1881 los primeros agrimensores, que originariamente la llamaban la “La Gaviota”, describieron la laguna, en sus memorias y planillas, como un sitio algo salado y de un largo de 1.400 metros. Para el año 1900, el predio pertenecía a la familia de Sebastián Scala y ya lo llamaba Ojo de Agua. Hoy se descubrió un yacimiento arqueológico que data de tres mil años, es decir, imagínese usted el tiempo que hace que esa maravilla está ahí y no nos habíamos dado cuenta.

Nena arrojando un poco de tierra a su respectiva madre. Padre, tomando mate, muestra una sonrisa.

¿Cómo nos dimos cuenta?

Corría el 2016, en el país recién asumía Mauricio Macri como presidente y en Santa Rosa la Laguna Don Tomás era prohibida debido a la contaminación para cualquier tipo de deporte acuático. Molestos, la gente de windsurf, kayak o canotaje tenían que encontrar una solución y vieron en Ojo de Agua (hasta ese momento un simple y ordinario cacho de agua) el lugar ideal para realizar sus actividades. Hasta ahora todo normal. Pero un día, el secretario de Cultura de Uriburu de aquel entonces y actual intendente, vio a los acuáticos deportistas y, en un arrebato de lucidez, dijo: “Acá hay algo”.

Cuentan que al principio observaban llegar a los foráneos –desde sus ventanas, metidos en sus cuevas– con ojos rencorosos”

Finalmente llegamos a Ojo de Agua. El día anterior habían concurrido unas 400 personas, el máximo según el protocolo. Antes de bajar del auto, se formula la pregunta: “¿Qué es la pampeaneidad?”.

–No tener un puto río-, responde, mientras cierra la ventanilla, una señorita muy escéptica. Es verdad, es cierto. Pero algo más debe haber.

Nos trasladamos hasta una mesa bajo caldenes, detrás de parrillas y frente a la laguna. Los árboles están atestados de capullos de gusanos que se volvieron mariposas. Pasaron por una metamorfosis, como la metamorfosis de este lugar. Por mucho tiempo fue simplemente un poco de agua, y ahora es un balneario con bufet, con sombrillas, con parrillas, con rincones para amar. Es una playa rural. Cuando jefe comunal se dijo: “Acá hay algo”, comenzaron con la rosca de nutrirlo de cosas, pero para que un producto sea exitoso, debe estar bien vendido.

¿Cómo se vendió?

El hombre estaba sorprendido por la manija que le habían dado a su proyecto, con comunicadores en conferencias de prensa, siendo tapa de La Arena y con todos portales reproduciendo la novedad a mansalva, por lo menos, una vez por semana. Inflando el pecho, se preguntó: “¿Acaso tan revolucionaria es esta iniciativa?”. No, intendente. Si bien se lo felicita por su condición de visionario, lo que ocurrió en el fondo fue que la propuesta de Ojo de Agua aterrizó en La Pampa en medio del verano, el momento culmine de la pereza nuestra, los periodistas. Y una novedad así, servida en bandeja en diciembre, es como un asado un domingo entre amigos: sale con fritas. Por eso Ojo de Agua se reprodujo por doquier y hoy tiene la vitalidad de una viralización.

Hoy Ojo de Agua es una insignia que los lugareños cuelgan en su pecho con orgullo. “¿De dónde sos?”, “De Uriburu”, “¡Ojo de Agua!”, “Así es”“

Un policía patrulla amablemente los caminos del predio. Se nota que tiene un aburrimiento atroz. Se lo invita a que participe del convite. Nos cuenta que el control de alcoholemia lo ponen a las 6 de la tarde. A su lado, un muchacho rigurosamente aguafiestas, de pantalón largo y remera negra con 36 grados de calos, dice: “Me entró un kilo de tierra en el ojo. Más que Ojo de Agua, esto es Ojo de Tierra”. Personalmente, pienso en meterme.

Jóvenes se despegan después de chapar largamente en medio de la inmensidad del paisaje pampeano.

Bajo por un médano y toco la arena casi blanca. Observo la amplitud de la laguna, 1.400 metros de largo. Las ganas de recrearme en paisaje pampeano invaden mi vida. Agua, sol y caldén ¿qué más? Avanzo. Señoras maestras varadas en la orilla, se tiran agua en sus piernas. Pibes y pibas pateando una pelota. Uno jugando al tejo, solo. Más adelante una parejita potencialmente caliente, chapan, y posan para una fotografía que les tomo. Vuelvo a dejar la cámara y regreso. Ahora sí. Estoy en el medio de la laguna. El pie se me hunde. Hace mucho que no llueve y hoy la profundidad no supera los 60 centímetros. Avanzo más al medio, pero se me hunde un poco más el otro pie. Miro a mí alrededor. El viento, el sol y la arena arden en mi espalda. Me acomodo. Flexiono un poco las piernas y me tiro de palomina. Literalmente quedo suspendido en el aire de manera horizontal y así caigo al agua. De esas breves profundidades, emerjo. El viento, el sol y la arena se cicatrizan en mi espalda gracias a la bondadosa agua salada. Vuelvo con mis colegas, ardiente y duro como una croqueta, y formulo, una vez más, la pregunta: ¿Qué es la pampeaneidad?

-¿Otra vez con esa pregunta? Ya te dije, no tener un puto río…

-Pero eso ya lo dijeron los poetas-, repongo.

Sentada sobre una mesa construida por la municipalidad de Uriburu, mira hacia arriba, hacia las ramas del caldén.

-Esos poetas son la pampeaneidad. Pero no por lo que decían, sino por lo que hacían. Le inyectaban épica a poemas de paisajes inexistentes. Inventaban ilusiones para generar una cultura. La pampeaneidad es tener este caldén para que el sol no te queme las tripas. Fijate que Ojo de Agua ni siquiera es Ojo de Agua, sino que es un “espejo” de agua salada. Eso es la pampeaneidad, la voluntad de inventarse ilusiones para sobrevivir-, dice, malévola, y concluye:

-Como vos, con la crónica de este viaje que estás pensando hacer.

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